We’re obsessed with train rides. I think they’re the best way to see a new country. All over the world, scenic rail tours have been revived as an alternative to traditional sightseeing. Japan is no exception. There’s even a term for those who are obsessed with trains: densha otaku, which means “train nerd.”

The Gono Line is famous across Japan for the dramatic views of the Sea of Japan coastline that it provides. The Resort Shirakami train is a leisure service that sometimes features live shamisen performances,  a traditional three stringed instrument.

The Gono Line connects Akita Prefecture to Aomori Prefecture, taking you through the northernmost reaches of Honshu. Its northern exposure makes it perfect for winter viewing, with snow covered inland landscapes on one side and rough winter seas on the other. Natural rock formations and views of Mount Iwaki make it even more dramatic.

We were determined to ride this legendary railway line. The wonderful staff at Japan Railways helped us book this train ride. The first officer used a PC, an ipad, and old railway hand books to find the necessary railway times and connections. I was so impressed with his mental and technological prowess.

From reading travel forums I realised that we wanted seats in a private booth, with seats facing each other, next to the window on the Resort Shirakami Carriage. Through sheer force of will (and some diagrams I drew), I made three different JR officers make this happen for us. 

We got our private booth in the Resort Shirakami carriage. The day was stormy and snowy; it was amazing to watch this from our cosy private cabin. It feels like the ocean is rushing right up to the train as it passes the coastline. It was an enthralling, visual feast that lasted for hours.

The trains stops makes a 20-minute stop at Senjojiki Station in Fukaura, Aomori Prefecture.

Passengers can step off the train and walk along the Senjojiki Coast, a flat, wave-carved rock plateau facing the Sea of Japan. It’s one of the most dramatic coastal spots on the route — especially in winter, when strong winds and crashing waves create a tableau that looks like a frozen, primodial off world landscape.

The sun set early that day as it was the dead of winter. We got off the train at the wrong station. It was sub zero temperature and we weren't sure what to do. We ran up to a train driver we spotted who told us we had to go back one station to get to Aomori. We aren't entirely sure what happened next but we think got a private trip. Is this even possible? Whatever happened but we believe that JR employee was an angel. Yet another memorable moment from an incredible day.

Many call the Gono Line one of the best coastal rail journeys in the world. After taking it, we agree.